A triumphant Gallic accent at Bar Bouchée
Jean-Pierre Vuillermet of New Haven's stately Union League Café presumably saw the absence of great cooking along the mid-coast and last year opened Bar Bouchée on a quiet side street in Madison. And to my mind, at least, he has given us (pardon the pun) one of the very few restaurants we can sink our teeth into in this part of Connecticut.
Our server won our undying loyalty for arranging to split an order of Quenelles de Brochet (featherweight Pike dumplings) served in cast iron casseroles and bathed in a heavenly, beautifully seasoned Sauce Nantua, a cousin to Lobster bisque flecked with morsels of crayfish. What a joy to rediscover something I hadn't seen on a Connecticut menu since Gerald Ford sat in the White House.
The brief list of full plates was supplemented by a selection of three sandwiches: a foie gras burger ($15.50), croque monsieur ($12.75) and croque madame ($13.75). I'll sample these in the future, but on our visit, we were more compelled by a hanger steak, a flavorful and cheap cut that, when it arrived, had been cooked "à point" (medium-rare) as we ordered and was served with a small crock of warm Béarnaise sauce and a pile of crispy French Fries. MORE Bar Bouchée
8 Scotland Ave., Madison
(203) 318-8004
No website
Cuisine: French
Atmosphere: The tiny and chic spot buzzes with activity at dinner; art deco lamps hang low over closely spaced tables. As the evening wears on, one strains to be heard.
Prices: Moderate
Reservations: Required; call no more than one week in advance of the desired date.
Service: Superb
Credit cards: VISA, Master Card, American Expres
Hours: Dinner nightly, 4-10 p.m. (till 9:30 Sundays)
Handicapped access: Access for wheelchairs through a rear door. Notify staff when making a reservation. There are a very limited number of tables suitable for wheelchairs.
Art Deco Bar - News
Once indoors, the cozy spaces evokes a French bistro of the Art Deco era: tile floors, high tables and stools, pendant light fixtures, and lots of glass. Diners can watch meals being prepared, thanks to a service counter along the translucent kitchen
Inside, the bars – which once served as the check-in and concierge counters in the 1930s – highlight the original Art Deco aesthetic, skillfully marrying modern design with a storied history, a tactic that Zakarian champions and uses often to inform
Decancio decorated the old bank building in an art deco style and placed candles everywhere, but left most of the original architecture alone. The 40-foot ceilings and original chandeliers were left intact. The lounge can legally fit 250 people.
It's one of the most beautiful spots in the world: the tinkle of the piano in the Art Deco bar, the purple bougainvillea spilling down the grey stone walls, the sunset over the Cannes hills, and the little jetty. The drinks cost a fortune,
David Dolata, owner of the art-deco Treasury building, 114 Watson St., is asking his patrons-to-be to suggest names for this basement bar. It will reside under Treasury, a restaurant tentatively expected to open in August. The “Name the Basement Bar
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